Weetamoo Woods

It's one of the most spectacular Land Trust trail systems in Rhode Island -- it seems to have everything, from amber waves of grain surmounted by grand trees and stone walls (one person commenting on a post of mine was sure those were the ones from The Shawshank Redemption) and woodland trails that just seem to go on and on. It contains all kinds of histories in its cellar holes and old mill sluiceways -- but above all, its name recalls Weetamoo (1635-1676), a Pocasset Wampanoag chief, the sunksqua (female sachem) of the Pocasset people. A powerful leader, she (like Chaucer's "Wife of Bath") had five husbands, and moved several times between the shifting alliances between tribes and colonists. Her last husband was Quinnapin, son of Ninigret and grandson of Canonchet, whom she married with the hope of reinforcing the Wampanoag-Narragansett alliance. Alas, that hope was in vain; the alliance was defeated by the colonists, and it's said that Weetamoo's head was displayed on a pike in Taunton, Massachusetts. 

One would understand if her spirit were restless, or even vengeful. But in these woods that bear her name, the spirit is one of beauty and reconciliation. With fields of unmown hay in the spring, old stones witness to many tales, and a great golden canopy of leaves in the autumn, Weetamoo Woods is a place of welcome. Happily, the Tiverton Land Trust has recently updated its trail maps, and made a good job of making the trail system easier to follow. Hikers can readily enjoy two to three hours of trails, while day-trippers and sometimes wanderers can choose any number of shorter outings.

The great tree

My favored trail starts from the main parking lot, taking an early right turn onto the orange trail, which follows an old cobbled cart-path deep into the forest. You'll eventually come to a quick series of choices -- the blue trail heads off to your left over a rugged way of stone and water, while a bit later the red trail takes a more level way to your left. Either way, connect at the far end with the green trail, which heads off to the east through (in spring) the crowded, heavy breath of mountain laurel. Stay on green until you come to yellow, taking another right and passing by an enormous old oak. You'll soon find yourself on a long and straight cart-path, with options to your left; I recommend staying straight until you reach the abandoned section of Lafayette Road. From there, walk to your left down the road until you see the blazes for the Ridge Trail or the Lafayette Connector. Either will take you to the cemetery trail, which climbs up through fields of gold to ancient trees and a cemetery -- the perfect place for a reflective snack.

The grave of Philip Gray

Returning the way you came, take a right and stick with yellow. You'll eventually find yourself on the "main drag" of the trail system, which follows the original "Eight Rod Road" -- an historic road named for the distance between the stone walls on either side -- back to where you've parked. Near the end, don't forget to visit the horses who graze at the field on your right. You will return sadder -- yet so much wiser --  than when you left. 

Connors Farm

It's one of the most beautiful hikes of any Land Trust properties in Rhode Island -- and also one of its best-kept secrets. Little would one suspect, driving through a neighborhood of upscale suburban homes on large lots, that just around the corner is the gateway to a wonderland? But there it is, accessed from a modest parking lot tucked between the houses. Connors Farm is one of those hybrid properties I've mentioned -- though the central area is managed by the Smithfield Conservation Commission, the further part of the property -- roughly where the yellow trail is located -- is managed by the Smithfield Land Trust.

The edge of the "biscuit"

The first thing you'll see as you hike in from the parking lot is a dramatic heap of massive boulders. It's the leading edge of a glacial deposit that's commonly referred to as a "biscuit" in New England -- it resembles the side of an enormous crumbling cake of stone -- and the one here is the centerpiece of the trail system.

My preferred hike here begins by taking the red trail to the right. You'll cross a creek on a small quaint bridge, climb up and down a ridge, and pass along a low, marshy lake. Not long after this, you'll see the blue trail on your right -- take it -- and make a note when you come to a very sharp turn left. There is an unblazed trail that continues straight at this point -- you can take it if you like -- it crosses the creek on a very robust bridge and passes through the Caroline Judson Land Trust property. There's no outlet -- please be sure to observe private property markers -- but it's a pleasant there-and-back spur.

Cliffs off the blue trail

Continuing on blue, you're in for a steep climb up the side of the "biscuit"; the trail briefly splits in two there. I recommend the right-hand branch, which passes along the cliff-side past several overhangs that might almost be called caves. Arriving at the top, you'll hit the yellow trail; take a right and continue along the top of things, dipping briefly for another stream crossing. Near here, you'll see an access path to the Burlingame Rd. entrance; continue on as you re-cross the creek on the route of an old carriage track. You'll soon come to another choice: a yellow-blazed connector to your right continues back to red, or you can finish the yellow loop and return by blue the way you came. 

A whimsical blaze

I prefer the former option; when you reach red again there's a picnic table with scenic views in non-leafy seasons. From there, continue right on red, descending from the biscuit steeply past some cliffs on your left that often attract rock climbers, You'll cross the creek one last time and then arrive back where you started.

For a variation -- one of my favorites -- you can park in the small lot off Mann School Rd,; the trail there will take you to red just at foot of the cliffs. From there, you can take red either way, and follow any of the above routes as you like.