Browning Woods Farm

It's one of the most thoughtfully laid out and signed trails in the state, but one gets the sense that it's not as well-known as it should be. It's certainly easy to miss the small parking area off Shannock Road just across from Moraine Road -- and the small size of the lot belies the sizable loop trail system, which runs to more than three miles (despite the South Kingstown Land Trust's figure of 2.5 miles). Along its route, it passes many natural and man-made features of considerable interest, among them the original farmstead of the Browning family, with a well-preserved cellar hole and barn foundation. An interpretative sign there seems to have been temporarily removed, but the history of the site is fascinating: The Browning farm was part of the original Pettaquamscutt purchase, and remained in the the Browning family for ten generations before it was eventually protected as a preserve. Many agencies came together to make this possible, among them the Nature Conservancy, the Champlin Foundation, and the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation, with SKLT taking the role of managing the preserve and developing a trail system.

The trail takes the form of what longtime walkers often call a "lollipop" -- a single trail that splits into a loop. The trail starts in a classic south county landscape, with sandy soil and a variety of pines and hardwoods; helpful signs identify the pitch pines and other conifers, as well as common ground plants such as Indian Cucumber Root. Roughly a half-mile in, you come to the fork for the loop -- take a right, and you'll soon come upon the remains of the Browning farmstead off to your right. Continuing through mature forest, the trail slowly loops around to the left, crossing and re-crossing a partly-overgrown meadow of scrub and grass, then following a cart path along an old stone wall. From there, the trail rises up a modest hill, then weaves its way around to close the loop. It's a well-graded, well-groomed trail, and a real pleasure to hike; the quality and length of the trail makes it ideal for families with younger children.

Tillinghast Pond

It's one of the most extensive trail systems in Rhode Island, beautfully laid out and maintained by the Nature Conservancy -- and yet, at times, it seems a well-kept secret. Only about 40 minutes from the Providence area, it seems almost another world away; as one drive down Plain Meeting House Road and begins to gauge its vast expanse, one begins to wonder whether, just perhaps, one has stepped back in time to an almost-unsettled era.

Starting at the parking area on Plain Road, you'll find yourself at the center of more than twelve miles of trail. If you have a full day to spare, pack a lunch and explore them all -- here, I'll just point out a variety of options, any one of which will yield a couple of hours of forests and fields, stones and streams. 

Cathedral Pines Trail

The main loop trail around the lake is the gateway to these; start to the right of the parking lot (facing the lake) and you'll soon come to your first decision -- follow white around the lake, or the yellow "Flintlock Loop." Take yellow, and descend a gradual hill through old forest; on your right you'll pass an historical cemetery, then arrive at the corner of a wide field. Take a right here onto the cathedral pines trail, which takes you down between rows of stately trees to a crossing at Plain Meeting House Road. Cross directly over -- you'll soon see red blazes, and find yourself at the corner of two stone walls; this is the Bates Homestead Loop (1.9 miles). It's a fine, narrow trail through a variety of forests, featuring a stream crossing with a rustic bridge and two benches, and a goodly variety of ups and downs.

Returning via the cathedreal pines, you can complete the Flintlock loop by following the yellow blazes, returning to your start along the eastern side of the lake. Many of the oaks here have been killed by past infestations of gypsy moths, but some persist, pushing new shoots out through their living parts; the sudden allowance of sunshine feeds a lush flourish of blueberry bushes. Or, if you're still looking to wander further, the Wickaboxet Trail beckons early along the way, with four miles of rambling through an adjacent area managed by the DEM. You'll see rocky outcroppings and the remains of a number of abandoned farmsteads, with barn walls and cellar holes; at the far end, there's a further opportunity as the trail connects with the West Greenwich Land Trust's Pratt Preserve.

Along Coney Brook Loop

And still, with all this, there remains nearly half of Tillinghast yet to be seen. The Coney Brook Loop may be the most scenic of all; starting from the parking lot it crosses the road, passing up a stream and an old mill dam. A lovely side-trail descends into the valley there via stairs at each end; don't miss it. Then continue through airy oak forest, around and over hills and hummocks, until you emerge at the far end of a large logged area. Though the loss of the trees at first seems painful, in summer you'll see the lush understory, with tall blueberry bushes along the border; a bristling rush of young pines, crowding each other in search of sunlight, rises from between the few lone sentinels of the old deciduous forest; some day they will become a forest of their own. A spur trail here leads alongside a cedar swamp to a small parking area on Hazard Road. It seems there will always be more routes and variations to explore -- so save a few for your next visit -- and do remember to wear orange during hunting season.

Sprague Farm

No other Land Trust property in the state has quite the scope and variety of Sprague Farm. In addition to a very well-designed central network of trails, there's a boundary loop trail which connects to blazed sections of local rough roads, as well as several possible side-excursions to neighboring Glocester Land Trust properties. You could easily spend the better part of a day there and never hike the same trail twice!

I have two hikes that I particularly enjoy -- one is an interior loop that makes use of nearly all the shorter trails, while the other closely follows the perimeter and includes a long spur to Elbow Rock.

Both begin at the trailhead on Pine Orchard Road. For the first, start down the main Sprague Trail but take your first right onto Jenk's trail. This crosses a small meadow and then enters deep forest; mountain laurel abounds in this area. You'll soon intersect with Jedediah's Trail; take a left, and continue on, crossing over the Sprague trail and going along a small stone dam. You'll soon come to an old cart path blazed as the "Cemetery Trail" -- take it to your right and you'll soon be at the lovely Sprague Family Cemetery. It must once have had a broad view of the many Sprague family farms; now, surrounded by forest, it seems almost a magical place. 

Venture -- respectfully -- within and say hello to Jedediah himself, as well as Lydia, Adah, and Colonel Anthony Sprague, all of whom have trails here named after them. Jedediah has a particular distinction, in that the tavern he ran -- now operated as the Tavern on Main in Chepachet -- became in 1842 a staging ground for state milita during the infamous "Dorr War'! A stop at the tavern to drink to his health is highly recommended, but for now, look for the start of Lydia's Trail (yellow blazes) just around the far corner of the cemetery. This will take you back, via the last segment of Jedediah's trail, to the main Sprague Trail. Take a left, but be on the lookout for Colonel Anthony's trail on your right in a half-mile or so. Go down it, stopping to wonder at the stonework of an old culvert, but keep an eye to your left for your next trail to John's Ridge. This short spur takes you up over a lovely ridge; on the far side is a rock that invites one to sit and have snack. Look then for Adah's trail, which will take you back to Colonel Anthony. At the end of Anthony, take a left onto the Haystack Hill trail, following it past the ruins of the old Smith Sprague homestead to the junction with the Sprague trail; a left here will steer your footsteps back to the start.

For a longer and more challenging hike, begin again with Jenk's Trail, but this time take a right when you get to Jedediah. A short stroll will take you near the road to where the Haystack Hill trail begins along an old cart track. Be warned: if you're hiking in the wet season, a large segment of this trail is underwater; you'll need solid, waterproof boots. Eventually, the trail climbs up out of swampy ground; you'll pass the Colonel Anthony trailhead on your left, but keep going; do the same thing when the Sprague Trail comes along. You'll find yourself, on this segment of Haystack Hill, passing across another stone culvert through mixed forest. At the first big X-shaped intersection, take a right onto Elbow Rock Road. This is still used by vehicles at times - it even shows up as a road in Google Maps! -- and again, in wet season, you'll have muddy puddles to skirt. About 3/4 of a mile, you'll see multiple tracks on your left leading up to Elbow Rock, a great grand glacial boulder with ample spots for a snack or lunch. If you're curious, you can go past there to Sprague Hill Road; a right turn there will bring you to the most recent of the abandoned homesteads, that of Chad Sprague -- a few buildings still stand.

Turn back, and once you reach the intersection with the Haystack Hill trail, you can continue -- on your right you'll see the ruins of Joe Sweet's farm, with a formation of stone pillars I like to call farmhenge -- someone has placed old rusty tools and implements atop each pillar. Continue down Elbow Rock until you see a road go off to the left near a marker stone; this is Joe Sweet Road. Go down it, following the rough road until you reach the paved version, where you'll see a parking lot for the William Klutz Woodland. About 3/4 of a mile along the paved road, you'll see a sign for the Burton Woodland to your right (you can venture down a cart-path about 1/3 mile in and back; there are no blazed trails). Just past this, on your left, you'll come upon an entrance to the Cemetery Trail; take this to Jedediah, Jededah to Sprague, and once more you'll be back at the start, weary but happy.

Don't forget to raise a glass to Jedediah -- and, since it's hunting season, don't forget to wear orange!