Browning Woods Farm

It's one of the most thoughtfully laid out and signed trails in the state, but one gets the sense that it's not as well-known as it should be. It's certainly easy to miss the small parking area off Shannock Road just across from Moraine Road -- and the small size of the lot belies the sizable loop trail system, which runs to more than three miles (despite the South Kingstown Land Trust's figure of 2.5 miles). Along its route, it passes many natural and man-made features of considerable interest, among them the original farmstead of the Browning family, with a well-preserved cellar hole and barn foundation. An interpretative sign there seems to have been temporarily removed, but the history of the site is fascinating: The Browning farm was part of the original Pettaquamscutt purchase, and remained in the the Browning family for ten generations before it was eventually protected as a preserve. Many agencies came together to make this possible, among them the Nature Conservancy, the Champlin Foundation, and the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation, with SKLT taking the role of managing the preserve and developing a trail system.

The trail takes the form of what longtime walkers often call a "lollipop" -- a single trail that splits into a loop. The trail starts in a classic south county landscape, with sandy soil and a variety of pines and hardwoods; helpful signs identify the pitch pines and other conifers, as well as common ground plants such as Indian Cucumber Root. Roughly a half-mile in, you come to the fork for the loop -- take a right, and you'll soon come upon the remains of the Browning farmstead off to your right. Continuing through mature forest, the trail slowly loops around to the left, crossing and re-crossing a partly-overgrown meadow of scrub and grass, then following a cart path along an old stone wall. From there, the trail rises up a modest hill, then weaves its way around to close the loop. It's a well-graded, well-groomed trail, and a real pleasure to hike; the quality and length of the trail makes it ideal for families with younger children.

Moshassuck River Preserve

The newest preserve with blazed trails in Rhode Island is also one of its loveliest: the Moshassuck River Preserve in Lincoln. It just recently opened to the public, and I was able to hike it this week; certainly the fine fall foliage added to its beauty, but I could see right away that I'd want to be back, and that the land there would reveal new treasures in seasons to come.

The preserve was established by the Rhode Island chapter of the Nature Conservancy, and made possible thanks to good neighbors: the Fairlawn Golf Course and the Lincoln YMCA. Fairlawn made land available for a parking lot at the trailhead, and the YMCA permitted part of the yellow trail to traverse its property. From my own experience on the Smithfield Land Trust, I know how vital -- and often, how hard to obtain -- these kinds of easements and permissions are. Like the prongs that hold a gemstone in a ring, they are as vital as the gem itself.

The trailside cemetery

The trails are thoughtfully laid out, taking advantage of carriage paths and older trails that probably date back to when the land was run by the Boy Scouts and known as Camp Conklin. The blue loop starts at the parking area next to the golf course, and follows the river -- a thing not too common in the northern area of the state -- past an old mill dam and over a culvert. It then rises up through boulder-strewn forest, and curves around on its way back -- where, happily, one can pick up the yellow trail and extend one's visit. Yellow heads up to the edge of a ridge just below the YMCA -- be sure to observe property signs and markers -- then curves back to return to blue.  To the side of the trail you'll see a historic cemetery -- this one dotted with unmarked fieldstones -- that speaks to a still earlier human presence on the land. A short white trail also connects the loops -- take it to enjoy a fresh set of mossy boulders -- and then return to your car.

The trail system is still a little rough in places, but most of the mud and crossings can easily be managed by an experienced hiker. The one exception is the spot where the yellow trail crosses a fair-sized tributary, which calls for a little improvisation, as there are no handy stones or sticks to assist; the only other major crossing has a fine wooden bridge. The blazes are professionally done, but in places (I felt) a bit scarce -- in part, due to leaf cover and the trail not being raked, it was easy to get off course; I lost the yellow trail several times. Also, as the that trail nears the ridge, you'll need to be on the lookout at ground level, as the only blaze to indicate your turn is on a small rock; if you miss it, you'll come out at an entrance/exit on the grounds of the YMCA. Still, these are minor distractions from what is easily my favorite new hike in Rhode Island; the Nature Conservancy is continuing to assess the crossings, and perhaps a bridge over the remaining one will soon be in the works.

Mary Mowry Conservation Area

It's a modest but lovely area -- in many ways the very heart of all the Smithfield Land Trust properties -- originally set aside for conservation when the land's donors, S. Burton and Mary Mowry, were still alive, in 1979. It was Mary, who survived her husband by twenty-one years, who donated all her remaining property to the town of Smithfield in 2008; this land includes what is now the Revive the Roots organic farming collective, much of Wolf Hill Forest Preserve, and even the land on which the Smithfield Police Department's headquarters now stands. Indeed, my favorite way to access the Mowry conservation area is to start at Revive the Roots's parking area on Farnum Pike.

From the parking area, follow the signs that point to "TRAILS" -- you'll walk past the community garden and through a grassy meadow, where the trail takes a left turn; ahead to your right you'll see the yellow clapboards of Mary Mowry's original home, where the current curators of the farm reside. As you enter the woods, bear left onto the trail marked "Lonnie's Loop"; you'll skirt the forest perimeter, then descend to a small stream. A log bridge there will take you to a popular fishing rock, ornamented with colorful artwork; return from the rock and continue up the right-hand side of the stream until you reach Old Forge Road. Crossing and walking up the road a short distance, you'll come to the conservation area entrance, where the stream passes under mossy ledges, and is crossed by a lovely arched wood-and-steel bridge. On a ledge to your right, you can see a plaque placed when the land was first preserved.

Once across the bridge, bear right and follow the yellow blazes; you'll pass through a grove of stately pines, and cross over a small tributary, before ascending a modest ridge. The climb is modest -- it's a great hike for small children -- but full of nooks and crannies of beauty. In the spring, look for Pink Lady's Slipper -- you'll see many in this area. After following the ridge for a brief spell, you'll descend to your left, coming to an intersection with the red trail. Take it to your right, and walk along a magical pine-swathed valley before ascending another ridge. And then -- all too soon! -- you'll be back at the bridge. Crossing the road and returning, you can bear left and return by another trail that will take you a bit closer past Mowry House and the farm, before rejoining the trail you came in on. The whole hike can easily be managed in half an hour -- but take time, and pause, and consider the beauty around you -- and think on Mary Mowry and her singular act of civic generosity. A greater gift to the community of Smithfield, and to everyone in Rhode Island -- is hard to imagine.

Olivia's Forest

Lower Bridge at Olivia's Forest, April 16th, 2021

It's one of the smallest trail systems of any Land Trust lands -- and yet also one of the sweetest. With just 31 acres of land and .68 miles of blazed trails, it's pretty easy to walk the whole thing in 20-30 minutes -- but I'd advise you to to take longer -- or, if you're a fast walker or a trail runner, go 'round the orange trail loop more than once -- there's much to repay your time and attention here.

Situated between Ridge Road and Cross Street in Smithfield, the land centers on a small stream that flows into the Woonasquatucket River near the old Georgiaville Mill. A green-blazed trail from Ridge Road will take you to the orange loop; since the loop is also part of the white trail, a bull's eye blaze of orange within white is the mark you'll follow on the trees. I recommend starting to your right if you've come from Ridge Road; your path with take you down a brief stony decline to the upper of the two river bridges. Cross and continue, climbing back out of the creek valley to a rounded hill with a stand of mature pine trees. 

As you continue, you'd descend a rocky cart path, coming to the spot where white goes off to your right. Following this, you'll come to a parting of the ways: white heads left, while an unblazed trail (shown as black on the trail map) continues down  and meets up with the end of Shamrock Lane; continue down the lane (more of a driveway than a lane) and you'll arrive at Cross street.

If you follow white, you'll go back once more to the stream, a rough crossing, and come out at the lower bridge where the orange trail crosses. If you continue on the orange loop, you'll come to the bridge first, and see white going off to the right on the far side. The white trail is a little rough and tricky to follow, but it definitely adds a little something to your experience of the woods. And, speaking of adding something, the trails offer an educational bonus: as part of an Eagle Scout project by John Fontaine of Troop 1 Georgiaville, interpretive signs on posts identify many of the trees you see. The signs are placed atop sturdy wooden posts, and at a good height so that both children and adults can see them.

Cemetery on Ridge Road

If you're looking to extend your walk, you can continue to your right after reaching Cross Street; you'll pass along a narrow road and come to a steel footbridge on your left that crosses the Woonasquatucket; ascending Stillwater Road you'll arrive at Georgiaville Pond. There, you can go out on the town beach (there's an excellent new interpretive sign at the edge of the parking area there), along the pond dam and have a peek at the stony rapids near where the Woonasquatucket flows from the pond, then return by taking a left on Higgins and another left on Whipple. Or, if you're coming the other way and arriving at Ridge Road, there's a lovely walk to be had to your left, passing historic homes and cemeteries on the left-hand side of the road, and a small farm where llamas are being raised on your right. Further along on the left, at the Mowry Barn, you can cross over and return.

Tillinghast Pond

It's one of the most extensive trail systems in Rhode Island, beautfully laid out and maintained by the Nature Conservancy -- and yet, at times, it seems a well-kept secret. Only about 40 minutes from the Providence area, it seems almost another world away; as one drive down Plain Meeting House Road and begins to gauge its vast expanse, one begins to wonder whether, just perhaps, one has stepped back in time to an almost-unsettled era.

Starting at the parking area on Plain Road, you'll find yourself at the center of more than twelve miles of trail. If you have a full day to spare, pack a lunch and explore them all -- here, I'll just point out a variety of options, any one of which will yield a couple of hours of forests and fields, stones and streams. 

Cathedral Pines Trail

The main loop trail around the lake is the gateway to these; start to the right of the parking lot (facing the lake) and you'll soon come to your first decision -- follow white around the lake, or the yellow "Flintlock Loop." Take yellow, and descend a gradual hill through old forest; on your right you'll pass an historical cemetery, then arrive at the corner of a wide field. Take a right here onto the cathedral pines trail, which takes you down between rows of stately trees to a crossing at Plain Meeting House Road. Cross directly over -- you'll soon see red blazes, and find yourself at the corner of two stone walls; this is the Bates Homestead Loop (1.9 miles). It's a fine, narrow trail through a variety of forests, featuring a stream crossing with a rustic bridge and two benches, and a goodly variety of ups and downs.

Returning via the cathedreal pines, you can complete the Flintlock loop by following the yellow blazes, returning to your start along the eastern side of the lake. Many of the oaks here have been killed by past infestations of gypsy moths, but some persist, pushing new shoots out through their living parts; the sudden allowance of sunshine feeds a lush flourish of blueberry bushes. Or, if you're still looking to wander further, the Wickaboxet Trail beckons early along the way, with four miles of rambling through an adjacent area managed by the DEM. You'll see rocky outcroppings and the remains of a number of abandoned farmsteads, with barn walls and cellar holes; at the far end, there's a further opportunity as the trail connects with the West Greenwich Land Trust's Pratt Preserve.

Along Coney Brook Loop

And still, with all this, there remains nearly half of Tillinghast yet to be seen. The Coney Brook Loop may be the most scenic of all; starting from the parking lot it crosses the road, passing up a stream and an old mill dam. A lovely side-trail descends into the valley there via stairs at each end; don't miss it. Then continue through airy oak forest, around and over hills and hummocks, until you emerge at the far end of a large logged area. Though the loss of the trees at first seems painful, in summer you'll see the lush understory, with tall blueberry bushes along the border; a bristling rush of young pines, crowding each other in search of sunlight, rises from between the few lone sentinels of the old deciduous forest; some day they will become a forest of their own. A spur trail here leads alongside a cedar swamp to a small parking area on Hazard Road. It seems there will always be more routes and variations to explore -- so save a few for your next visit -- and do remember to wear orange during hunting season.